Since 2010, sales of organic foods and beverages in the US have started to outpace conventional groceries. Considering how Americans have fully embraced health and wellness, this isn’t surprising. Likewise, because of our collective goal to minimize harm to our environment, the demand for organic clothing is on the rise.
Eco-friendly fashion – clothes that take into account the environment, health of consumers, and working conditions of workers – is definitely “en vogue”. In the not-so-distant past, the thought of organic clothing would conjure up the image of lackluster, unshapely, and itchy hemp shirts, jackets, etc. No more. Today, organic fabrics – cotton, wool, silk, hemp, flax (linen), and bamboo – printed with natural dyes are fantastically incorporated into simple and super-chic fashion. And the competition among retailers such as Patagonia, Nike, Barney’s, Levi’s, H &M, Target, and Wal-Mart to bring their organic brand into the mainstream is amazing.
During the 1990s several clothing manufacturers attempted to mainstream organic textiles (mainly cotton) but had very little success. Patagonia, however, emerged as a successful trailblazer. Beginning in 1996, Patagonia began using organic cotton in outdoor sportswear and introduced sustainability by using fibers made from recycled soda bottles spun into fleece. Nike also made a corporate commitment that paid off. As a co-founder of the Organic Exchange (a charitable organization supporting worldwide organic cotton agriculture), Nike steadily increased their annual organic cotton demand, which helped increase the overall supply of organic cotton and lower price points. Nike’s most recent accomplishment was reaching a 5% blend of organic cotton into 100% of their garments worldwide in 2010.
Wal-Mart, one of the sixth largest retailers of organic products in the US, gained the distinction of becoming the largest grower of organic cotton in the world. Of course, there will always be debate concerning the sustainability of Wal-Mart’s organic cotton.
Nonetheless, the popularity of organic cotton has facilitated consumer education about the toxicity associated with conventional cotton production. Globally, cotton crops use approximately 25% of the world’s insecticides. Fifty-five million pounds of pesticides are sprayed on 12.8 million acres of conventional cotton grown in the United States. In 2000, the EPA considered 7 of the top 15 pesticides used on cotton crops as “possible,” “likely,” or “known” human carcinogens. Additionally, chemicals used in the processing of cotton pollute our air and surface waters. And any residual chemicals left in the fabric irritate the skin.
Despite environmental advantages, organic cotton accounts for only 1.1% of the world’s cotton; hence, it’s an expensive commodity. Currently, organic cotton is grown in 23 countries worldwide; India leads in organic cotton production, with the US in fifth place. US farmers have been reluctant to undertake the time-consuming and expensive transition to natural crops. Now with signs of a growing demand for sustainable clothing and with support from the government Farm Bill, more cotton farmers will receive organic farming education and gain market advantages with labeling their cotton as “transitional.”
Bamboo as a sustainable textile option is also gaining popularity. Bamboo is perhaps one of nature’s most renewable resources: It grows without pesticides or fertilizers; it’s 100% biodegradable; and its harvest time is relatively short. Bamboo’s functionality is also making it an organic textile favorite. Besides being super soft and breathable, bamboo is fast-drying, moisture-wicking, thermal-regulating, and…antibacterial. Athletes everywhere are rejoicing!
With the proliferation of standard organic textiles (cotton, wool, silk) and the variety of renewable materials such as bamboo, soy, or tencel (a wood pulp product), consumers have a gamut of apparel choices. Oftentimes, sustainable clothing can cost a bit more; like any good investment, take note of care. Many fabrics can be tossed in the washing machine, but others may need hand-washing or eco-conscious dry cleaning.
The virtues of organic and sustainable textiles seem appreciable – decreased exposures to allergens and pesticides, less hazards to our soil, water and farmers, and creative innovation with recycled materials. Unfortunately, as demand for organic textiles increase, the problems associated with manufacturing – deforestation, quality control and standardization – will concomitantly appear. Ultimately, we, the consumers, will determine if and how the eco-fashion industry will thrive.
Dr. Celeste E. Williams is a fan of organic apparel. Her apparel company, Wear Adinkra®, promotes sustainable health and features West African Adinkra symbols on organic cotton tee shirts. Dr. Williams currently lives in Greensboro, NC with her three children.